Prepared to support the latest processors and nonmobile mobile services. Intel also introduced 14 new graphics processors, including support for WiMAX.
As noted by Engadget, the latest variant of Intel's new Core family as much as a new variant for the i7 Extreme, 12 new variants of i7, 12 new variants and four new variants I5 I3.
From the family extreme, there is a new processor for the i17-2920XM lapotop. Other i7 there are nine new processors for laptops, namely 2820QM, 2720QM, 2630QM, 2535QM, 2620QM, i7-2649M,-2629M i7 (aka LV), 2625M, 2617 M As for the desktop series is 2600K. 2600S and 2600.
For i5 family, Intel released a new variants 12. Consists of four variants for the laptop that is 2540M, 2520M, 2410M and 2537M (aka LV). Nine variants for the desktop consists of 2500 K, 2500S, 2500T, 2500, 2400, 2400S, 2930T and 2300.
For i3 family there are four new variants. The latest variant of the 2310M for laptops, and nine new variants to the desktop that is 2130.2100 and 2100 T.
Laptop Stand is a place holder for laptop or we can so neat it seems, where laptops can be categorized two kinds.
1. Laptop Stand with cooling.
If you worked long hours in front of the laptop, or want to just relax while lying down watching a DVD from the laptop or watching TV using a usb tv, you may buy this
This portable laptop desk can bend-bend, easy to carry anywhere, and can be used while sitting, kneeling, or even while sleeping.
Already equipped with a laptop fan or additional cooling fan laptop, portable laptop desk or laptop desk that one can make your laptop stays cool even if worn for a long time.
Power fan using a usb laptop. Usb plug from the fan to the laptop has two ends back and forth, male and female usb, so do not spend a laptop USB port. Once plugged into the laptop, underneath there is a female usb plug to the usb port can still be used. Or if you do not want to use the power of a laptop can use the charger usb charger 5v or also called mp3 ($ 1.5) is extended with a usb cable.
2. Laptop stand as a table.
a. Laptop desk for convenient internet surfing or work anywhere. b. Easily alter the height and angle c. Can bend bend, easy to carry everywhere. d. Height can be changed from 25 cm to 36 cm e. Strong, durable, great laptop table form.
Laptop Desk Features:
- Easily adjustable height and angle. - Fully folded, easy to take along, and easy to fold within seconds. - Height can be easily adjusted from 25cm to 36cm - Grade 6 flexibility and stability. - Desktop eagle can be easily adjusted by 180 degree. - Durable, and good shape.
3. Laptop Cooler
This species is kind of a laptop cooler but it can also be referred to as Laptop Stand.
That's the kinds of Laptop Stand, you can use for your laptop of course ... but the price is relatively cheaper than a Laptop Price (own laptop prices), price range from $ 2.5 to 50.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT COMPUTER FAN. Little sharing of knowledge I understand dapet still a newbie, so if any suggestions or opinions, feedback welcome. Confused fans chose to make cases? or create a HSF? banality even hooked WC radiator? Here are some guidelines that might help select a suitable fan for your computer.
About Fan
CFM?
CFM stands for Cubic Feet per Minute. which means how much air you breathe fan, high CFM - CFM as well as low noise - Silent .. but not all high CFM means noisy, there are several influential factors.
dBa?
dBA stands for decibels adjusted, a measure to declare the level of noise. the higher the CFM, usually the higher the DBA.
RPM?
RPM - revolutions per minute, RPM scale means that how much the fan can spin a full circle for one minute. the higher the RPM, the greater the noise level.
Static Pressure?
Maybe this is one of the ordinary people forget in choosing fan. how much static pressure fan is blowing and sucking air through objects such as HSF, Rad, etc.. the greater the static pressure, the greater the amount of air that pass through HSF or radiator fins. static pressure depends on the design of the fan and the turbulence created.
Bearings
Sleeve - using both sides are usually lubricated with oil or some kind of grease to reduce friction. type of bearings is less durable because of the frictional be worn or dry lubricant. sleeve bearings are usually not heat resistant, and highly influential positions except vertical mounting. sleeve bearing life span is about + - 40,000 hours - 50 C usually the types of fan sleeve affordable priced, and who have little to keep the rpm durability of the fan.
Ball - bearing that uses a sort of seal that contains the iron ball, such as bearings for bicycle or motorcycle tires. who are generally priced more expensive, and more resilient sleeve is longer than the type. stand in the searing temperatures and quieter than sleeve bearings at high speed. + life span - 63 000 hours - 50 C.
Fluid - certainly more expensive than the above two types of reply. who is more complicated configurations and has a life span longer reply and durable a better and who is also the noise level low. widely known as S-FDB fan who mostly used the scythe. most commonly found on the Thermalright and Scythe fan.
Choosing the right fan
we are here for fan placement for each of its usefulness.
- Fan casing - Heatsink / Heatsink - Silent
Fan Casing:
divided into two parts Intake and Exhaust
Intake
Yate Loon D12SM-12 - fan is highly recommended because of high CFM and a noise level of rational reply
Coolermaster R4 - CFM fan who also has a fairly high and a very low noise level (69.69CFM, low to 19dBa). has its usual variety of LED colors
Scythe Slipstreams - fan that sucks air is very large and the noise level is still rational, for the casing is recommended 1600rpm to 1900rpm is too noisy due to casing
Xigmatek XSF / XLF - with spec 72CFM & 24dBa, quite capable as your intake casing, for enthusiasts LEDs can glance at the XLF are available various colors
Silverstone SST - one of my favorite fan is suitable as an intake fan with 9 blades specification, up to 110CFM and the noise level 39.5dBa. makes it easier with the controller settings that exist in pake purchases.
Exhaust
Xigmatek XLF / XSF - XLF by spec 61CFM and 72CFM XSF and low noise level + - 20 - 24dBa.
Yate Loon D12SM-12 - as mentioned above, but reasonably high CFM dBA
Noctua 12 Series - expensive but high quality fan, silent and sufficient to remove the heat out of your PC, adjustable controller included in the package.
Scythe S-FLEX - one of the more expensive line of fans. with S-FDB technology became his fan is more value. long life span and low vibration and low noise level who
GentleTyphoon Scythe - may rarely be found in Indonesia, there may be interested so Stocker with spec + - 55CFM and 28dBa
Scythe Slipstreams - high rpm fan with a reasonable level of noise is highly recommended be used as an exhaust heat waster out.
ENERMAX Magma - silent but really nice. specifications 69CFM and noise level only 18dBa. fits with the concept of a silent but did not reduce the amount of airflow casing and looks eyecathcing blanketed in red.
Heatsinks
To note, the fan is suitable for the HSF, judging from the amount of static pressurenya. not merely CFM because the fan has a CFM is lower but has a large static pressure which makes the process much better cooling than fans with high CFM but has a lower static pressure.
Small example, Scythe Scythe s-flex and slipstreams, s-flex has a lower cfm but the static pressure is large, compared with slipstreams that has a higher cfm but the static pressure is small. seen from the size, measuring 120x120x38mm fan usually has a static pressure greater than 120x120x25mm.
Single Fan
Sanyo Denki H1011 - static pressure and with a spec that could be considered but only requires 0.5A highly recommended to cool the radiator or heatsink. but it may be hard to find in Indonesia
Sanyo Denki H101 - latest version of the H1011, with the static pressure is greater with a smaller CFM
Panaflo NMB-MAT - a great fan to the heatsink, having a large static pressure, though not for san aces but still makes the fan is one of the recommendations.
Delta - who does not know the name of this fan, is famous for the noise level a very very high CFM with static pressure is enormous, but unfortunately the noise level already at the plant suggested using a fan controller or earbuds
Silverstone FM122 - Silverstone? 9 blades with adjustable controller, it can reach 107CFM fan static pressure and 5.68 mmH2O, nice fan but unfortunately not yet available in Indonesia
Push Pull Setup as we see above, with a size of 120x120x38mm fan to dominate the best recommendations for heatsink. but maybe the noise level of each is different, one push-pull solution is possible with a lower noise level
Scythe S-FLEX F - can still be found in some stores Indonesia, one of the recommended fan that has a large amount of static pressure for size 120x25mm fan, suitable for push-pull configuration
Scythe GentleTyphoon - with unique blades, this fan makes a good combination for push-pull, also has a large static pressure for fan size 120x25mm
Silverstone SST-FM121 - previously discussed, this fan is perfect for push-pull configuration with the amount of static pressure 3.26mm. very highly recommended
Noctua P12 - the fan is also bundled with an adjustable fan controller, very, very silent but has a big cfm. the amount of static pressure + - 1.68 mm, good enough for the fan 120x25mm
Akasa AK-FN057 Apache - fans that I have not found the market Indonesia, but look and size of fan blade design, reminds me with one fan a very good spec with the static pressure 2.64mmH2O. This fan is perfect for push-pull with the concept of silent
Silent Cooling
probably quite a lot of interest in silent cooling, as in the HTPC enthusiasts who prefer to enjoy the entertainment kenyamaan middle ear. For this concept, I recommend the Noctua P12
all the fans that I mentioned above, based on my personal reference might still each have opinions that vary with different conditions
- Ter-Silent Fan nominated for the Noctua NF-S12B
- Best Fan for Radiator TFB1212GHE Delta-F00 (disregard the noise level)
What distinguishes the performance of each of the RAM is a type of chip used. so, the producers bought the chips from other manufacturers and create or to relabel the chip. Essentially there is a possibility also different brands such as Apacer, Visipro, Vgen, etc. have the same chip.
The difference in performance when the standard will not be felt, might only be felt at the memory benchmark. But in everyday use will not feel the speed difference with the standard memory Visipro value such as value, value, etc. Vgen. For the value of RAM most of which circulated in the market using the IC (chip) Samsung and Hynix (Hyundai). The name of the chip easily viewed on a stick in the memory IC
It may be more difficult to know the name of some memory chips on premium, can be caused because a closed memory heatsinks and some do not allow the opening of its heatsink (warranty reasons).
Choosing RAM that has not seen a good performance of its brands, or physical shape and price. If the price of RAM up to $ 100 even with a heatsink macem-macem and shape that looks frightening but dijalanin default, is not it worth it? RAM heatsinks have millions with all sorts but its chip Hynix or Samsung is also just wrote lied.
Noteworthy are the characteristics of the chips he uses, that will determine the performance of RAM. And note also, that the performance of the entire RAM when running the default is the same. The difference at the benchmark default, also rose slightly with a point adrift. So we purchase useless good RAM but run it by default. RAM is usually symbolized quality of its price can be seen from its ability to run on tight timings and high frequency (overclocking).
If you are going to buy RAM, please adjust to your needs. If the need for daily use (the default), do not force yourself to buy RAM that uses gaming chips (good), which fall into the category Overclocking Edition. You can use the RAM that value would be more efficient. But if you want to use for the purpose of overclocking, buy good RAM chipset, and supported cooling heatsink, fan-like products corsair.Catatan gentlemen, do not be swayed to buy RAM Heatsink
The lowest price range NVIDIA GTX 590 is $ 699. This price is quite high. The high price makes it only a handful of gamers / users who can enjoy the NVIDIA GTX 590. Moreover, high-performance system needs to issue a full performance from the NVIDIA GTX 590. Such systems have a price is not cheap. However, the price paid for the NVIDIA GTX 590 quite commensurate with performance and features that you'll get.
Capitalize GF110 two chips, a NVIDIA GTX 590's performance in the standard state is already quite high. However, NVIDIA GTX 590 still have a hidden force which can still be issued. This time, we will release the hidden power with overclocking. Intrigued by NVIDIA GTX 590 performance improvement after the overclock? Consider the results of our overclocking experiments below.
NVIDIA GTX 590
Specification
Two chips GF110 on NVIDIA GTX 590 has the same specifications as the specifications on the NVIDIA GTX 580 GF110. However, specifications on the NVIDIA GTX 590 clocked lower than the specifications of the NVIDIA GTX 580 clock. Supposed to raise the clock specification NVIDIA GTX 590, NVIDIA GTX 590's performance is capable of approaching or matching the performance of two NVIDIA GTX 580 in SLI mode. However, if the clock is as easy as it reaches the specifications of NVIDIA GTX 580?
Overclocking
After seeing and reading some of the events "death" NVIDIA GTX 590 when the overclock, we decided to do the overclocking NVIDIA GTX 590 securely to prevent the NVIDIA GTX 590 we meet the same fate. To overclock the NVIDIA GTX 590, we used the MSI Afterburner tool. In addition, we also replaced the 800 Watt power supply us with a 1050 Watt power supply to prevent power shortages due to increased power consumption due to overclocking.
For the first experiment, we managed to raise the NVIDIA GTX 590 core clock to 661 MHz. Core clock is classified as (fairly) safe because it can be achieved without the need to raise GPU voltage. Meanwhile, we set the fan speed at maximum speed (95%).
As for the second experiment, we raised the voltage to 0975 (default 0938) and a 688 MHz core clock. We also set the fan speed at maximum speed (95%).
Filled with curiosity, we finally went to overclock the NVIDIA GTX 590 to a higher level again. With voltage 1013 V, we managed to achieve 742 MHz clock speed and memory clock of 3600 MHz.
One day pack jason comes to a computer store and want to buy a VGA to his son who wants to play games. Mr. Jason asked in a computer store and ask a store to his desire. Because ignorance pack jason only know of children that have to buy a VGA at 1 mb and say at the store. then the store gave vga antecedent intention to pack jason with VGA saying that was enough for his needs. After pak amir home and try it, how disappointed he saw that the VGA can not play games on his daughter's intentions.
The story was often the case, so perhaps this article will help you choose the VGA is good and right when you shop.
Things need to ask the seller if you want to buy a VGA:
1. A large memory capacity VGA, ordinary buyers say 1GB or 512 MB (pack jason examples like buying a VGA to ask 1 GB). But it needs to be explained is not always 1 GB is better than 512 MB.Jelasnya can be read at point 4.
2. Chip in if you want, currently on the market there is a chip ATI or NVIDIA. based on our experience to work, Ati is better in the field of image and NVIDIA better in the field of video editing and more compatible to all games.
3. Ask the buyer how many bits wide VGA data is offered to you. the more bits the better because it will be faster, eg 64 bits, 128 bits, 256 bits, 512 bits.
4. Ask all memory used whether DDR2 or DDR3 or DDR DDR5 because the greater its louder. Please know of the memory does not determine speed. For example if you buy 1 GB DDR2 VGA is not better than you buy a VGA 512 MB DDR3 (usually store play it here).
5. See Heat sinks are "the bigger is better", but see also the attached memory space to get enough air or not.
6. adjust your monitor. The bigger your monitor, the greater the force that need a VGA to play the game. Examples for monitors 16 "GT240 can choose 128-bit DDR3, when the monitor is 19" to try GT 240 128 Bit DDR5, and 22 "can use 256-bit DDR3 GT250.
7. Brands do not dwell on is not always the best, based on the experience we all now follow the reference VGA quality so nearly all manufacturers of all brands have type2 sama.karena on everything from low to high. so the benchmark buyer of the option is only 1-6.
We give examples of a common VGA in use and could be a reference and learning if you want to know more details. at the start of the general low to middle men who buy (VGA $ 400 we did not include)
For office or HTPC (range $ 40-50):
1. NVIDIA 210 GT Mem DDR 2 / DDR 3 64 BIT (512 MB / 1 GB) 2. NVIDIA 9400 GT Mem DDR2 64 BIT (512 MB / 1 GB) 3. ATI HD 5450 Mem DDR2 64 BIT (512 MB / 1GB)
To Game online or HTPC (range $50-80)
1. NVIDIA GT220 Mem DDR2 / DDR3 128 BIT (512 MB / 1 GB) 2. NVIDIA 9500 GT Mem DDR2 / DDR3 128 BIT (512 MB / 1 GB) 3. ATI HD 5555 Mem DDR2 128 BIT (512 MB / 1 GB) 4. NVIDIA 240 GT Mem DDR3 128 BIT (512 MB / 1 GB)
For Game Offline such as COD, Battle Field, Starcraft 2 (high RES) (range $ 90 - 120)
1. NVIDIA 240 GT BIT Mem DDR 5128 (512 MB / 1 GB) 2. NVIDIA 250 GT BIT Mem DDR 3256 (512 MB / 1 GB) 3. ATI HD 4650 BIT Mem DDR 3256 (512 MB / 1 GB) 4. ATI HD 5770 BIT Mem DDR 5128 (512 MB / 1 GB)
For a new game or the next 1-2 years (range $ 200 - 300)
1. NVIDIA 460 GT Mem DDR 5192 BIT / BIT 256 (758 MB (192 BIT) / 1 GB (256 BIT)) 2. ATI HD 5830 Mem BIT DDR5 256 (1 GB)
Similarly, info select VGA this time, hopefully to help you shop VGA and can be used to suit your needs thanks and congratulations to shop:)
Although quite effective to get rid of dust, but still only dust can accumulate in the hole where the intake air (fan intakes) that will be exhaled into the inside of the fan casing. Collection of dust can interfere with the flow or air flow. You need to clean the fan and the fan intakes from dust, especially when you hear the fan rotation is different from usual.
A heat sink requires a constant flow of air to dissipate heat arising. On most computers, the internal fan has provided adequate air flow to cool the computer. Tip from me is, never remove the cover casing when your computer is running. If you do, then you can mess up the flow of air that keep the processor and other components of the risk of overheating.
For the record, the computer hardware is also very sensitive to temperature changes that occur continuously. For example, sometimes there are some people who turned on his computer and then turn on again for various reasons, such as just checking email. It can give a bad impact on the computer. More appropriate step is to just let the computer is on, then turn off the monitor.
1. Files an annoying WATERMARK.EXE proved in two places, namely:- C: \ Program Files \ Microsoft- C: \ Program Files \ Common Files \ MicrosoftAnd this virus will spread into namaacakMGR.exe
2. This virus attacks the flash is very easy. he prepares for dshortcut 4, a recycler and autorun.inf files
3. Each drive if exposed to this virus will be exposed anyway autorun.inf
The workings of this RAMNIT virus:
1. The virus is transmitted through the FD. And even though we turn off autorun. We are exposed to this virus bias
2. When we go into a desktop PC or laptop us without us knowing it is the manipulation of viruses ramnit own. All the system is the manipulation of ramnit. Biangkeroknya is watermark.exe
3. If you reinstalled the virus will appear again for whatever reason because this virus does not have a file of children. So all of the parent. How it works:- Viruses of fd directly create a folder named C: \ Program Files \ Microsoft and C: \ Program Files \ Common Files \ Microsoft- And she made backupan file in the folder System Volume Information and Recycle every Hard drive.- After that he was infecting all of the data dikomputer. No half-hearted, too. Let dihapus same user. for example in the already infected fileku in D: \ aaa \ aaa.exe (just an example). And did I delete the folder aaa- Then we thought if the restart was successful bias. And finally it worked. But if we install the software aaa.exe td in D: \ aaa \ backupan the virus results in the System Volume Information and Recycle every Hard drive will wake up from sleep and re-infecting virus, and he made another watermark file in: \ Program Files \ Microsoft and C: \ Program Files \ Common Files \ Microsoft
How to clean:
1. This antivirus my mainstay. Only you know. Because the other hell to pay. Hehe http://www.freerav.com/
2. Should indeed be re-installed my computer but after that you all do not install the driver first. The way to do is the way to the 3
3. Turn off autorun via start-run or be with Win + R and typing gpedit.msc. on computer-system configuration 2x click on the "Turn off autoplay" enable and click below click on the All drives and do the same on the user configuration
4. Temporarily turn off access to the System Volume Information and Recycle every Hard drive. The trick is to click tools folder options to view or hide the tab uncheck the use simple file sharing and click ok, then right-click on System Volume Information on drive C: \ click sharing and security on the security tab click advanced and remove centangan on the option below. Click ok. If there is a warning just click ok. And ok and finished. Do it to recycle and on the other drive
5. Create a folder Microsoft in two places, namely in security c: \ program files \ and c: \ program files \ common files \ and do the way to the 4
6. Virus scan with your antivirus mainstay. And will dtemui various viruses millions. If the place I have 6000 viruses. . htm file that 3000 just does. . tp wrote ^&^*& tetep
7. delete the corrupted files that exist on your drive, like tryel.exe
here until the computer is secure. While not copying the same file with a file that is infected dfolder the same name. As I "D: \ program files had been infected with all the" now I replace install on "D: \ programs files \"
You could make your computer quieter by making it less powerful. But that's basically just giving up part of your computer to get rid of part of its noise. Instead of bothering you a little by making noise as it works, your computer could bother you a lot by making you wait for it to work. Here's how to build a computer that is both very quiet and very fast.
- Understand a few principles of computer cooling
- Moving parts get much noisier as they move a little faster. Two big, slow fans will be quieter than and move as much air as a big medium-speed fan, or one or more small or medium-size medium-speed or fast fans.
- Air flows more easily thorough a large continuous space than through a series of narrow spaces with the same total cross-section. A heatsink with very-closely-spaced fins is for maximum performance with a powerful fan, to make sure most of the air molecules bump into it and carry away heat before they're blown out and away. It's not better with a slow fan, but moderately-spaced, thin, smooth fins as most heatsinks are usually fine. A given amount of energy (and noise) will much more easily suck in cool air or blow out hot air through a big fan and open grate than a lot of little fans and little holes.
- Heat needs to be removed from components, and from the case. Exhausting it to the outside directly avoids unnecessary work and noise removing it with a separate fan.
- Don't rely on the power-supply fan for removing much heat from the inside of the computer. The power supply needs to be kept cool too. If most of the rest of the computer's heat has to flow through the power supply, the power supply's life will simply be shortened and/or its not-easily-replaceable and not-necessarily-very-quiet fan will automatically increase speed.
- Most components need at least a little cooling. One or more case fans for a flow pattern eliminating dead spots is best. If you have multiple expansion cards and some produce much heat (see if they have heatsinks on them, or if they feel hot after use), direct a fan to cool them directly. As usual, a big quiet fan, mountable directly on some cases, is preferable.
- Mechanical components such as fans and hard drives should be soft-mounted so that they cannot transfer their vibration to the wide case panels, which efficiently transfer it to large amounts of air and make noise. Isolated, these components dissipate vibration mostly as negligible amounts of heat within themselves.
- A fan sucks air in from all directions toward one side, then blows it out the other in a narrow stream. So, it's more effective to blow air toward something to be cooled a distance away, or to create an overall draft. If the fan is directly against something, such as a heatsink, the direction is not very important and should be chosen to assist rather than fight overall air flow. Sometimes fans can be noisy when one side or another is obstructed due to the fan pushing against its bearings. Using wire fan grills, rather than grates, can reduce the unwanted back pressure.
- Choose a case.The "tower" type is best because it can go under a desk, distancing the computer from the ears, while allowing the removable-disk drives to be reached easily and not consuming much floor space. Look for the following features:
- Large vents to let air in toward the front (often holes around the sides of a plastic bezel and a perforated steel plate behind it) and preferably a front fan mount. Big exhaust fans at the back won't do much good unless air can easily flow into and throughout the computer before blowing out.
- All-120mm fan mounts. This is the standard "big" fan size. Fans bundled with cases might be quiet enough, particularly if their speed is adjustable, but don't count on it.
- Unobstructed fan openings. Grids of little round holes are bad; large perforations making an open mesh is good.
- Plenty of width, so a big CPU cooler protruding off the motherboard will fit. Most mid-size and full towers are pretty wide.
- Long video card compatibility, at least 10.5 inches.
- Plenty of 5.25 inch hard drive bays, if you will use hard-drive enclosures. Otherwise, built-in 3.5 inch bay hard-drive soft mounts, such as those Antec provides, are nice.
- A ventilation hole and fan mount arrangement to cool the expansion cards.
- Aluminum cases, possibly due as much to being fancy overall, with little vibration-damping plastic and also with fancy loose rattle-prone tool-less connectors rather than screws, tend to be noisy. (Gaps that tend to rattle against each other can be muffled by applying cloth tape or even foam weatherstrip to the mating surfaces.) Steel is quieter. Almost all computer cooling is done by fans, not conduction through the case, so a steel case will keep cool just as well.
- "Acoustic damping foam" can absorb (not just seal in) noise from interior components. It is applied to inside surfaces of a computer. If you choose to use it, check that it does not interfere with interior components such as case hard-drive racks or a big heatsink.
- One author likes Antec cases with 120mm fans.
- Choose a motherboard. Full ATX is best for a quiet PC because it lets expansion cards be spaced out for better cooling. These boards also happen to more often have features making them better for other reasons, too.
- Look for a motherboard with multiple-GPU technology, such as AMD "Crossfire" or nVidia "SLI", compatible with your type of video card if you think you might want to upgrade. SLI compatibility is more restricted.
- It's often easiest to mount the CPU cooler before installing the motherboard in the case. If the cooler does not clip to the CPU socket or a bracket around it as most do but uses screws extending through the motherboard (tighten only firmly, don't break something), you must have access to the back of the motherboard to mount it.
- Choose a CPU cooler. This will generally be a heatsink with an attached fan, also known as a "HSF" or simply a "heatsink". Look for standard 120mm fan compatibility. As with a case, a bundled fan may be quiet enough, but don't count on it. A "tower" style heatsink is generally quietest; check that the case will be wide enough to accommodate it hanging off the motherboard. Generally avoid all-copper heatsinks because they cool only very slightly better than copper-and-aluminum ones, and are so heavy they risk damaging the motherboard when the computer is moved.
- The CPU cooler will need a mount compatible with your particular kind of CPU. Many are compatible with many kinds of CPUs, but check.
- A CPU cooler's fins are often thin metal with sharp edges. Take care not to drag fingers against them or hold them by the edges of only a few fins. It would be best to hold the cooler with a glove or small towel if force, such as pressure on a clip, is needed to mount it (be careful not to break anything). CPU coolers with only a few thin, sharp fins placed a significant distance apart could increase the risk of cuts.
- Be sure to remove any plastic film from over the CPU and heatsink, and Apply Thermal Paste, also known as thermal compound, when installing a heatsink. Modern CPUs generally have a large metal protective "heat spreader" permanently installed. The recommended small blob of thermal paste in the middle to be spread by pressure is fine; bear in mind that the actual CPU is a small chip under the middle of the plate so perfect edge-to-edge coverage is unneeded, and trying to achieve it by spreading the compound risks more-problematic bubbles. If the heatsink base has crevices in it, such as those around heatpipes that touch the CPU directly, fill them with thermal compound (scrape it in with an unneeded plastic card). The thermal paste that comes with a cooler is generally fine, but check reviews if you like.
- One author likes Arctic Alumina. It's no more effective than other good thermal pastes, but it's relatively easy to clean up and non-conductive so an errant bit won't cause problems.
- The cooler supplied very cheaply by the CPU manufacturer would be effective, but they are, with some exceptions, loud (check reviews of the kind supplied with your specific model of CPU). Generally, you won't want to use it. You may as well not try it because the single-use thermal pad (rather than thermal paste) it comes with is hard to clean off when you remove the cooler.
- One author likes the Sunbeam Core-Contact Freezer. It's effective, cheap, and not very heavy, but the mounting clip requires considerable pressure. The bundled fan is fairly quiet; the cooler is a bargain even if another fan is used.
- Some heatsinks such as Thermalrights are available with matching ducts to exhaust hot air directly. You'll need a case fan hole straight behind the heatsink. These can be inconvenient to install.
- Choose fans. Slow-moving 120mm fans are best. Bigger, slower fans are available, but not in many varieties. Ball bearings are very durable but noisy. Sleeve bearings are less durable, particularly in high-temperature environments (which should not be a problem if the case is ventilated by multiple 120mm fans). Fluid bearings (FDB) are quiet and durable but cost a little more. Some fans have special blade designs to reduce turbulence noise, but that isn't much of a problem with slow fans anyway. Retail stores tend to have high markups on fans and other small accessories.
- One author likes the Scythe S-Flex 800rpm, which has fluid bearings.
- Check the CPU temperature with monitoring software to make sure it isn't too high. 60 degrees Centigrade or below under sustained load is fine (extreme cooling isn't necessary except for overclocking).
- Mount and arrange fans. Use soft mounts instead of screws. Arrange the fans so air flows through the case in an orderly manner. For instance, in at the lower front and by the expansion cards, through the CPU cooler, and out the back. There should be a case exhaust fan, but air can also be pushed out by the power supply fan, a duct from the CPU cooler, and a video card integrated heatsink.
- Choose video cards. Look for something that has a dual-slot cooler (which has room for a much bigger, slower, quieter fan) and exhausts hot air out of the case directly. Multiple video cards would generally be better than dual-GPU cards, because less air must be forced through the little heatsinks to cool them. Look for a relatively inexpensive current card that has the same kind of cooler the manufacturer supplies on its most powerful card. These will generally be almost as capable as, but significantly less power-hungry and noisy than, the best if they have almost as many parallel processing units running at a slightly lower speed and voltage.
- Non-standard dual-slot heatsinks are often not as quietly effective as the chip manufacturer's reference heatsink, which is generally the most common kind. But they are usually better than single-slot coolers.
- Unlike CPUs, video cards are not designed for a variety of coolers. Aftermarket coolers generally occupy multiple slots and are difficult and somewhat risky to install.
- If you use multiple video cards, try to space them out. Try to avoid covering one's air intake with an adjacent card.
- Choose hard drives. A solid-state drive is extremely fast, cool-running, and completely silent, but expensive in large capacities. If you need a lot of storage, 5400 RPM or slightly faster hard drives with fluid bearings (which most of them have now) are best. They are cheap, nearly silent, and only a little slower than the common faster 7200 RPM drives. A more complicated approach would be to use the 5400 RPM drives for data storage, and the SSD for programs, where its fast random access is particularly advantageous.
- You can reduce the latency of a slower-spinning hard drive with "short-stroking" to reduce seek time at the expense of capacity. You can do this with a special drive-configuration program, or simply by making only a single small partition of perhaps 25% of the drive's capacity.This partition should be at the "beginning" of the drive, customarily mapped to the higher-linear-speed, higher-data-rate outer tracks. (A very small partition is wasteful because rotational latency is constant at a given RPM.)
- Like fans, hard drives should be soft-mounted to keep them from transferring vibration to the case. The kind of soft mount for a hard drive is different from the kind for a fan. Some Antec cases come with soft mounts. They may also come with "suspension" mounts, but moving the computer with those in place risks serious damage.
- Do not wrap hard drives in insulating material. The best way to quiet them is a padded enclosure with special heat-conducting parts. One author likes the "Smart Drive" from Grow Up Japan.
- Choose a power supply. A power supply converts alternating current from the mains into direct current at various voltages your computer can use. Power supplies vary in capacity, efficiency (which affects quietness because waste energy becomes heat which needs to be removed by airflow), noise, and consistency of power output. They include fans and heatsinks, which are not practical to change. Look for a well-recognized brand name or favorable reviews specific to the particular model, a 120mm or larger fan, sufficient connectors for all your components (extras can be added for items that consume little power, like CD drives), and good ratings for quietness ("silent" in the description means little). As a rule of thumb, choose one with a capacity rating of about twice the total maximum power consumption of the major system components (CPU and video cards) for long life and quiet operation, and one with "80 Plus" efficiency certification.
- "80 Plus" bronze, silver, gold, and platinum are successively higher levels of efficiency certification.
- Fanless power supplies are not great for high-power computers. They would need cooling from external fans, which would be a less efficient, louder use of air flow.
- Power supplies with "modular" cables can give a neater appearance, but add a set of power-supply-to-cable connections to potentially have problems. If your concern is simply quietness, just neatly bundle excess cables to reduce airflow obstructions.
- One author likes Antec (economical but good), Enermax (high capacity) and Nexus (super quiet) power supplies.
source : http://www.wikihow.com/
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